Cotton may be the king of fabrics, but linen is the emperor. Not only has linen been around for longer than cotton, but it could be considered the first ‘global’ fabric too.

Linen has been a mainstay of men’s fashion for eons. Men through the ages have appreciated its comfort and ease of use. The Bollywood movie star and producer,   Akshay Kumar, is one such fan. He once said, “Linen is good because it looks trendy and at the same time it's very comfortable.”  It’s quite simple, really.

In this article, we’ll take a walk through the iconic fabric that is linen. The history of linen will be explored (because it’s fascinating) and you’ll discover just why this natural fiber has been prized for so many centuries.

A Little About Linen

Linen is derived from the flax plant, yet another gift from Mother Nature. It is made from the tough fibers of the flax plant, being derived from what is referred to as the plant’s ‘phloem’ or ‘inner bark’. That’s why making linen is notoriously laborious, requiring numerous stages of production.

The history of linen dates back literally thousands of years. Estimations are that linen in some form was in existence at least 10,000 years ago. Fragments of linen fibers dating back to 8000 BC have been found in Swiss lake dwellings, as well as the famous Qumran Cave near the Dead Sea. Dyed flax fiber was found in a cave in the Balkans region of Europe, which was carbon dated at roughly 36,000 years in age.

Flax was in fact the first textile produced by people. The Ancient Egyptians included flax and linen as integral parts of their economy. Being an absorbent material that deflected heat came in handy in the harsh desert heat!

More recent ancient civilizations revered linen. For example, those same Ancient Egyptians believed their gods were draped in the fabric, with the finest linens reserved for only the elites of the Nile delta. Linen is quoted in the Bible, as being worn by angels. That’s in the Book of Revelation, the final book of the New Testament.

Linen was also the world’s first composite material. Layers of linen were laminated together to form the breastplate of Alexander the Great of Macedonia as he conquered huge swathes of the Mediterranean region.

The Greek philosopher Plutarch wrote about how high priests wore linen and how flax “supplies a plain and cleanly clothing, which does not oppress by the weight required for warmth. It is suitable for every season.” Indeed it is.

And the Romans called the flax plant the linum usitatissimum or ‘most useful flax.’ Note the word linum, no doubt the root for the word we use today, linen. Centuries later in northern Europe, linen would be used to produce shirts and worn under woollen outerwear. That’s how linen came to be the root word for ‘lingerie!’

More recently, Elizabeth II wore a simple white linen dress when crowned Queen in 1952. Today, and although commonly found in fashion, linen is still noted as being a superior and luxurious fabric. The famous French designer, Christian Dior, spoke of linen as, “what marble is to the sculptor, a noble material.”

Linen’s Credentials

Although internationally known and renowned, most flax grows in a relatively small stretch of Western Europe, ranging from Normandy and Bretagne in France up to Amsterdam. A whopping 95% of the world’s flax is grown in just three countries - France, Belgium and the Netherlands. France is the world’s biggest exporter of linen fabric. One hectare of flax yields approximately 900 kilograms or 1,984 pounds of yarn, which equates to about 4000 linen shirts!

Importantly, linen is also highly sustainable, in that its cultivation doesn’t require additional irrigation nor does it contain genetically modified material. Being a native plant species means it supports local ecosystems and primes the soil for future crops. Let’s just say that most cotton…ahem…cannot boast the same green credentials.

Why Is Linen Such A Great Fabric?

Linen has so much going for it as a men’s fashion textile. It’s lightweight, breathes easily, thermo-regulates and it wicks moisture. No wonder it is considered one of the most comfortable fabrics to wear. Along with cotton, it is the go-to fabric for the warmer weather of spring and summer.

Linen also looks great. ‘Casual elegance’ is the term that best describes the sartorial effect of linen. It somehow seems to drape casually and easily over any person, be it a suit, jacket or shirt. Linen’s relative coarseness doesn’t lend itself well to being a ‘tight-fitting’ fabric, and, therefore, is usually designed as a loose fit, making it ideal for men all sizes and shapes.

Those Ancient Egyptians were onto something with their adoration of linen!

Another great feature of linen is its versatility being that it’s less structured and stiff than other fabrics, cotton included. A man can look smart and sophisticated for a formal event in a linen suit, and equally attire-appropriate for a more laidback summer affair.

As for the fact that linen wrinkles easily, just consider that one if its best features, not a fault!

Linen Ties

It’s very simple: your closet requires some good-quality linen ties. In fact, you probably don’t even realize that you might already own ties in a cotton-linen blend. Those are quite common in both neckties and bow ties, given that they retain their shape with cotton whilst having the softer feel of linen.

Unsurprisingly, linen ties are more commonly used for spring and summer outfits. They’re a terrific complement for both light and heavier cotton garments, as well as fabrics such as rayon and even denim. Pure linen neckties move more easily than their cotton, silk or woollen counterparts and pure linen bow ties have a subtle ‘droopiness’ to them which can be charming and quirky.

Linen ties always feel soft to the touch and can be as fetching in busy patterns as in bold, solid colours. 

Linen is a fabric for the ages. Its legacy in men’s fashion is timeless and it continues to excite, be it with garments or accessories, such as linen ties. Every man needs some linen in his wardrobe. Long live, linen!