A common perception is that silk is entirely smooth to the touch. After all, the simile, ‘smooth as silk,’ is a well-known expression which dates back to 1900. However, not all silk is that smooth and slippery in feel. Shantung silk, also known as silk Shantung or ribbed silk, is a more rough-textured textile that has a lightly abrasive tactile quality when running one’s fingers across it.

Shantung silk was first produced in the province of Shandong on the Yellow Sea coast of eastern China, from which its name is derived. There are records of this distinct silk having been introduced into Europe during the Renaissance. In England, it was especially popular for ball gowns during the Regency period of 1795 to 1820. China remains the biggest producer and exporter of this silk.

Even though it has a rough feel, this silk is actually considered the gold standard of silks by fabric experts. Its characteristic fluted ridges even have their own name: slubs. It is considered one of the more natural or ‘wild’ varieties of silk. Shantung also differs in its provenance, since most Chinese silks are traditionally from the south of the country. Furthermore, Shandong is a region with a rich and ancient cultural and spiritual history, which adds to Shantung’s allure.

Shantung is a highly breathable fabric, with mild moisture-wicking abilities and low heat retention, making it a very cool and easy fabric to wear. It is also a crisp fabric and is one of the thinnest silks, which means it drapes, bunches or cascades with elegant ease.

It is the go-to silk for high-end wedding gowns, as well as quality blouses, men’s shirts, vests, tailored pants and evening wear. It is a gorgeous silk with which to work, which is why Tieroom uses it for some of our selected neckties, bow ties and pocket squares / handkerchiefs, all of which are made in the famed Como district of northern Italy.

Worth noting is that silk comprises less than 1% of the global textile market, of which Shantung silk is only a minuscule portion. Yet Shantung continues to resonate as a fabric’s due to its unique texture that is superbly suited to haute couture and high-end garments and fashion accessories.

It is the very irregularity and ‘imperfection’ of Shantung that makes it such a unique and captivating fabric.