A tie in just a solid color can be very effective. However, sometimes a pattern can elevate a tie to another level, creating an entirely different look. The choices are limitless, with patterns such as paisley or tartan being popular with some men. Striped ties are also very popular, of course.

Another pattern that’s highly popular is a tie with dots. Dotted ties are a unique category deserving of some closer attention.

Different Types of Dots

In the textile industry, the term ‘dot’ refers to any “small circular or rounded shape that is either woven, printed, or embroidered onto a fabric surface”. However, the word ‘small’ to describe dots in an accessory such as a tie can be misleading, as we’ll see.

An important aspect of a dot pattern is its sequencing: in classic menswear, dots on ties are typically arranged in a regular pattern, whether the pattern is linear or diagonal. The ‘half-dropped’ design is another recurring pattern in which dots appear in a recurring wave-like sequence. Geometric dot formations can also be appealing. A scattered dot pattern is less typical but can be visually interesting too. The spacing of dots is also an important feature of a given pattern.

Then there is the size of the dots. The two most typical are, unsurprisingly, the small and the large dots. Small dots can be referred to as ‘pin dots’ or ‘micro dots’. Some of these dots can be so tiny as to almost be indiscernible at a distance.

The larger dot is better-known as the polka dot. Today, people often refer to all dots on ties as ‘polka dots’. That’s acceptable, although purists prefer to use that term only for larger, bolder pattern of dots. You choose your choice of name!

The Mighty Polka Dot

The fashion designer Marc Jacobs once said,” There is never a wrong time for a polka dot.” Some men would agree with him on that!

The historical trajectory of polka dots is an interesting one. The name itself doesn’t even go back that far. In fact, dots were uncommon in menswear for a long time for two reasons. Firstly, sewing dots by hand was an especially laborious and difficult process that made any dotted pattern very expensive. Secondly, for centuries any dotted pattern was associated with diseases, and specifically leprosy and bubonic plague.

Those grim associations only dissipated by the 19th century and even then those circles on fabric were simply called ‘dots’. The name ‘polka dot’ came about during the 1800s due to the craze for the polka dance that swept the Americas and Europe at the time. The English word ‘polka’ itself is Czech in origin, derived from the word ‘půlka,’ which means ‘half’ or ‘half-step.’ It explains why it was used to name the quick, half-step movements of the polka, itself originally a Czech folk dance. 

Designers and tailors quickly realized that polka dots (and smaller dots for that matter) looked best on smaller accessories. That’s why to this day polka dots are usually used in handkerchiefs, scarves, socks and, of course, ties.

Polka dot ties and bow ties became prevalent in the 20th century. One of the iconic figures of the 20th century, Winston Churchill, was famous not only for his cigar and pout but also his polka dot tie and, especially, polka dot bow tie from Turnbull & Asser of London. In movies, the Italian actor Giorgio Albertazzi caused a stir in 1961 when he wore a polka dot necktie in the French New Wave classic film Last Year at Marienbad by Alain Resnais.

Which Dots to Wear?

The most common fabrics for polka dot ties are cotton, silk and synthetic blends, although they can be found in woollen ties too. Like any strong pattern, it cannot always be worn with just any ensemble. It’s worth pondering what might be the typical clothes with which to wear a specific type of dotted tie…

The larger or classic polka dot itself is usually equally sized and evenly distributed across a tie, and most often appears as white dots on a single background color, or the reverse. The effect is obviously bold and captivating. As such, it makes sense to usually wear these types of polka dots either with a white or off-white dress shirt or shirt in the same or similar color as that found on the tie. Even using similar-toned or pastel shirts can provide an effective look.

Due to their size and boldness, polka dots tend to be more often used in less formal occasions, such as cocktail parties or for more casual daywear. When worn on bow ties, polka dots can be fun at a wedding or gala event. Certain professional or academic men may enjoy wearing polka dot ties or bow ties as a way of asserting their originality and, well, not wanting to ‘fit in with the crowd’.

For a more unusual look, you can pair a tie with large polka dots with a shirt with smaller dots. The same can be done with an accessory featuring smaller dots, such as a pocket square or scarf. However, one has to be very careful when attempting this, as the placement of different-shaped dots in the same garment can be jarring to the eye and even, yeah, ugly! So, take care with that option.

Smaller micro or pin dots are a lot easier to use, given that they are a more conservative and ‘safer’ choice. Being more formal-looking means they are often worn by businessmen or other professionals who want to wear a patterned tie that looks understated and more classical. These are the dotted ties that are more easily paired with pinstripe suits since they don’t clash with the suit’s design.

The great thing about dotted ties is their sheer variety, ranging from the playful to the bold or simply sophisticated. You just have to take a look at our terrific collection of dotted ties to see what we mean. Here at Tieroom, our love of dotted ties, whether tiny micro dots, pin dots or polka dots, remains as enduring as ever.