Ancient Persia. A town in western Scotland. Bandannas. The Beatles. These are just some of the things that are synonymous with one of the most enduring and famous patterns in men’s ties: paisley.

Just as people declare that paisley has become ‘old-fashioned’ or passé, so it resurges with a vengeance, with new takes and new twists on a centuries-old pattern.

This article is our homage to paisley. You will almost certainly learn a new thing or two!

A Most Distinct Pattern

Paisley is very distinct and it’s a good idea to understand the fundamentals of this exotic yet familiar pattern. First, a definition, this one by the Oxford Dictionary, which defines the paisley pattern thus: “A distinctive intricate pattern of curved feather-shaped figures based on an Indian pine-cone design.”

Second, what does paisley look like? At first glance, the pattern looks comprised of curved figures. Upon closer inspection, paisley is reminiscent of an elongated teardrop or raindrop or a mango fruit. It could also be likened to an exaggerated comma or even a kidney. You choose!

Third, what surrounds the famous shape is important too. In almost every paisley pattern, the distinctive shapes, whether they look like teardrops or mangoes to you, are surrounded by other features and designs. These could include floral prints or abstract shapes or swirls. The pattern provides a thrilling sense of movement.

The final impression is of something surreal, almost psychedelic. It explains why the pattern was so popular with the hippie set of the 1960s and 70s!

A Fascinating Early History

The history of paisley is a fascinating one that spans continents. The teardrop-shaped motif with its distinct curved upper end is known as the boteh or buta. It’s the Persian word for ‘budding flower or plant,’ which explains its origins in textile design in Persia, most specifically the Sassanid dynasty. That could date the design to as far back as the 7th or 8th century AD.

Some scholars have speculated that the buta could be a mix of a floral bouquet and a cypress tree. This was a known motif symbolizing life and eternity for those of the Zoroastrian faith in Persia and the Indian subcontinent.  It should be noted that paisley was predominantly used in shawls worn by men, usually for formal or ceremonial events.

The pattern grew in popularity during the Persian Empire of the 16th century, after which it spread to neighbouring India. It was from India that paisley eventually travelled as a design pattern to Europe in the 18th and 19th centuries. By then, the more intricate Indian version of the paisley design had become used in shawls from the northern province of Kashmir, which proved very popular with both the upper and middle classes of Europe, and Britain in particular.

It would be women who first adopted the paisley design in Europe. The pattern would evolve as British textile makers adapted paisley with their own designs during the 1800s. Soon, paisley would become synonymous with a certain town in western Scotland.

A Scottish Town Named Paisley

Between 1800 and 1850, it was in the town of Paisley in Renfrewshire, Scotland, that weavers became the foremost producers of shawls with the distinct design, in imitation of those brought over from the East. And so the centuries-old ancient Persian pattern would become known as paisley. 

Importantly, paisley also became the predominant pattern on European-made bandanas from the early 1800s onwards, a tradition that endures to the present day. Paisley-printed bandannas (or light fabric pocket squares) would with time be used by men as diverse as cowboys, steelworkers, longshoremen and bikers, eventually being adopted by gay men in the 1970s.

Oh, and just about any gritty sci-fi movie will have characters sporting bandannas around their sweaty foreheads or arms, with James Cameron’s 1986 blockbuster Aliens being a notable example!

Paisley saw a resurgence in popularity in the 1960s with the hippie-inspired ‘flower child’ movement. Paisley was emblematic of the so-called ‘summer of love’ of 1968. The biggest band of them all, The Beatles, were at the vanguard of ‘paisley mania,’ with John Lennon even painting his Rolls Royce in a vivid day-glo paisley pattern!

The Paisley Tie

Paisley may have been predominantly used by women in the 1800s but by the 1900s it had become a mainstay in men’s fashion too. Renowned haute couture labels such as Yves Saint Laurent, Burberry and Gucci adopted paisley in their fashion. However, it was the Italian brand, Etro, which has used the paisley design for the longest time in its menswear, particularly for the linings of their suits and jackets.

Male rock singers have been particularly partial to paisley, including the likes of David Bowie, Paul Weller of the Style Council and Liam Gallagher of Oasis. Gallagher even founded a clothing label, Pretty Green, which specialized in the pattern. The most famous ‘paisley singer’ has to be Prince, though. The ‘Purple One’ even named his record label Paisley Park, which today is also the name of the museum home and studio in Minneapolis in his honour.

But it was for neckties and bow ties that paisley has become most used in men’s fashion, followed by handkerchiefs (remember those bandannas) and, to a far lesser extent, by waistcoats.

The strength of the paisley pattern is its incredible diversity. It can be used in any combination of colours and hues, punctuated in any way desired by an astonishing array of possible floral and abstract options. Being a rather intricate and rich design means that paisley is probably best used with heavier garments and when asking yourself: what tie should I wear on an autumn or winter ’s day?

The paisley bow tie can be especially fetching. Any groom seeking to not be completely outdone by his wife on their wedding day should definitely opt for a paisley bow tie! It’s an impeccable choice, since it embodies both tradition and sophistication, while still looking daring and original.

And, no, paisley is never ‘garish’ if worn properly! Paisley is a design that simply never fades away, which is why we decided to dedicate an article to it. It is a pattern worthy of any discerning wardrobe. We here at Tieroom consider paisley like an old friend, always welcome and never boring. You should too.